Hoang Su Phi, nestled in the remote highlands of Ha Giang province, is a hidden gem known for its breathtaking terraced rice fields and vibrant ethnic minority cultures. If you’re seeking an authentic off-the-beaten-path experience in Vietnam, this guide will help you plan your journey.
About Hoang Su Phi
Hoang Su Phi is a district in Ha Giang province, located in the far north of Vietnam near the Chinese border. It is renowned for its stunning terraced rice fields, which are considered among the most beautiful in the country. The area is home to various ethnic minority groups, including the La Chi, Hmong, Dao, and Nung, who have cultivated these terraces over centuries, creating a striking and culturally rich landscape.
How to get there?
Reaching Hoang Su Phi requires some planning due to its remote location, but the journey is well worth the effort.
Per tour
Hoang Su Phi’s remoteness makes it a challenge to reach independently, so joining a guided tour is the most convenient option. Tours often include transportation, trekking experiences, and overnight stays in local homestays, allowing you to immerse yourself in the region’s natural beauty and culture.
From Hanoi to Ha Giang
By Sleeper Bus: Depart from My Dinh bus station in Hanoi around 20:00, arriving in Ha Giang at approximately 5:00 the next morning.
Alternative Stop: Request to be dropped off in Tan Quang, closer to Hoang Su Phi. Some accommodations in the area can arrange pick-up from this point.
From Ha Giang to Hoang Su Phi
Private Car with Driver: Arrange transport through your accommodation or local services for a direct and comfortable ride.
Motorbike: For adventurous travelers, rent a motorbike in Ha Giang and follow QL2 to Tan Quang, then DT177 to Hoang Su Phi. Be cautious as the roads can be challenging.
How to get around
Exploring Hoang Su Phi is an adventure in itself, with winding mountain roads and hidden paths leading to stunning landscapes and ethnic villages.
By Motorbike
The best way to explore the area is by motorbike, which gives you the freedom to visit remote locations and enjoy the scenic views at your own pace.
- Self-drive: Suitable for experienced drivers comfortable with challenging terrain. The roads can be narrow, steep, and slippery during the rainy season.
- Motorbike with a driver: For a safer option, hire a local driver who knows the area well, allowing you to relax and take in the sights.
By Car
If motorbiking isn’t for you, renting a car with a driver is a great alternative. Cars can take you to key spots, and from there, you can begin hikes or short treks into the rice fields. Note that some smaller roads are inaccessible by car.
Trekking
Trekking is the most immersive way to explore Hoang Su Phi. Local guides can lead you through terraced rice fields, bamboo forests, and ethnic villages on foot. Many treks include overnight stays in homestays, offering a chance to experience the local culture up close.
Best time to visit
The beauty of Hoang Su Phi changes with the seasons, and choosing the right time to visit can make your trip even more memorable.
Golden Harvest Season (September to October)
This is the best time to see the terraced rice fields at their peak, glowing with golden hues as they ripen for harvest. The vibrant colors, combined with the hard work of the local farmers, create a picturesque and lively atmosphere. If photography is your passion, this is the perfect time to capture stunning shots of the landscape.
Water Season (March to May)
During this period, the rice terraces are filled with water in preparation for planting. The fields reflect the sky, creating a mesmerizing mirror-like effect that is equally beautiful and unique. This is also a great time for trekking, as the weather is mild and the scenery breathtaking.
Growing Season (June to August)
The rice fields turn lush green during these months, showcasing the early stages of growth. However, it’s also the rainy season, with frequent afternoon downpours. While the weather can be unpredictable, the vibrant green terraces are a sight to behold.
Best Weather
For clear skies and pleasant temperatures, visit in October-November or March-May. These months avoid the extremes of summer heat and winter chill, making them ideal for trekking and outdoor activities.
Best things to do in Hoang Su Phi
Hoang Su Phi is a treasure trove of natural beauty and cultural experiences. Here are the top activities to make the most of your visit:
1. Trekking through terraced rice fields
The iconic terraced rice fields of Hoang Su Phi are a must-see, best explored on foot. Trekking allows you to immerse yourself in the breathtaking scenery and observe the intricate farming techniques of the local ethnic groups.
- Multi-Day Treks: Combine scenic views with cultural experiences by staying overnight in homestays along the way.
- Local Guide: Hiring a guide ensures a safe journey and access to hidden trails and lesser-known spots.
2. Visit villages of ethnic minorities
Hoang Su Phi is home to various ethnic communities, such as the Hmong, Dao, La Chi, and Nung people.
- Explore villages like Ban Luoc, Nam Ty, and Thong Nguyen to see traditional stilt houses, colorful clothing, and unique customs.
- Learn about their agricultural practices, try local dishes, and gain insight into their daily lives.
3. Stay in a local homestay
For an authentic cultural experience, spend a night in a homestay.
- What to Expect: Basic facilities, warm hospitality, and home-cooked meals.
- Cultural Immersion: Participate in daily activities like cooking or farming and share stories with your hosts around a cozy fire.
4. Hoang Su Phi Market
Held every Sunday in the main town of Vinh Quang, this market is a lively hub for trade and socializing.
- What to See: Farmers and artisans from nearby villages gather to sell fresh produce, traditional textiles, and handmade crafts.
- Atmosphere: The colorful attire of the ethnic minority women adds to the vibrant charm of this weekly event.
5. Climbing mountains
For adventure seekers, Hoang Su Phi offers challenging hikes to two stunning peaks:
- Tay Con Linh (2,419 meters): The highest mountain in Northeast Vietnam, offering spectacular panoramic views.
- Chieu Lau Thi (2,402 meters): Known as the “nine-story mountain,” this peak provides equally breathtaking scenery.
Best terraced rice fields in Hoang Su Phi
Hoang Su Phi’s terraced rice fields are a masterpiece of agricultural ingenuity, and each area offers unique perspectives and experiences. These fields are spread across six communes, each with its own charm and cultural significance.
1. Ban Phung
Located near the Chinese border, Ban Phung is known for its steep, high-altitude terraces.
- Highlights: The terraces are carved into the steep mountainsides, offering dramatic views.
- Cultural Note: You can also visit ancient tombs of the La Chi ethnic group in the area.
- Accessibility: A small mountain pass leads to the commune, approximately 30 km from Vinh Quang town.
2. Ho Thau
The terraced fields of Ho Thau are vast and gently sloped, providing stunning panoramic views.
- Ethnic Group: Home to the Red Dao people, who practice sustainable farming by leaving small forested patches near the fields to prevent soil erosion.
- Accessibility: Located about 16 km from the Nam Dich commune junction, these fields are easy to include in a trekking itinerary.
3. Thong Nguyen
Thong Nguyen is situated where three streams converge, creating a fertile plain amidst the mountains.
- Highlights: Ideal for photography, particularly at km24 on the Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi road.
- Ethnic Group: Visit Nam Hong village to interact with the Red Dao people and enjoy their hospitality.
4. Ban Luoc & San Sa Ho
These communes feature softer slopes and wave-like terraces.
- Ethnic Group: Predominantly farmed by the Ao Dai and Nung communities, who create intricate and mesmerizing patterns on the mountains.
- Highlights: The bow-shaped terraces are particularly captivating during the harvest season.
5. Nam Ty
Nam Ty’s terraced fields are not only visually stunning but also hold cultural significance as National Monuments.
- Location: Found along the road from Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi, at km24.
- Ethnic Group: Owned and cultivated by the Red Dao people, these terraces are a testament to their dedication and skill.
Where to stay
Hoang Su Phi offers a range of accommodations, from basic homestays to cozy retreats, allowing you to choose the level of comfort and cultural immersion that suits your preferences.
Type of accommodation
1. Homestays:
Staying in a local homestay provides an authentic experience of ethnic minority culture.
- Expectations: Basic facilities, hard mattresses, communal meals, and warm hospitality.
- Cultural Immersion: Witness daily life, enjoy home-cooked meals, and interact with local families.
2. Hotels:
While few in number, Hoang Su Phi has some simple hotels located in Vinh Quang town (not recommended).
- Expectations: Slightly more comfort than homestays, but facilities remain modest.
- Convenience: Ideal for those who prefer proximity to town amenities.
3. Lodges & Retreats:
For more comfort, a limited number of eco-lodges and retreats offer scenic views and a tranquil atmosphere.
- Expectations: Private rooms, higher levels of comfort, and beautiful natural surroundings.
- Price Range: These options tend to be pricier but provide a serene escape.
Locations
1. Vinh Quang Town:
This is the main town of Hoang Su Phi District, offering a small selection of hotels and local restaurants.
- Best For: Travelers who prefer convenience and access to basic amenities.
- Highlight: Visit the Sunday market for a lively cultural experience.
2. Countryside:
For a more picturesque experience, stay in one of the many homestays and lodges scattered across the countryside.
- Best For: Waking up to panoramic views of terraced fields and immersing yourself in local life.
- Popular Areas: Ban Phung, Nam Ty, and Ho Thau communes.
Recommended accommodations
1. Panhou Retreat
- Price: From €50 per night
- Highlights: Offers bungalows in a peaceful setting surrounded by nature.
2. Hoang Su Phi Bungalow
- Price: From €40 per night
- Highlights: Combines rustic charm with comfortable amenities and scenic views.
3. Riz d’Or Retreat
- Price: From €60 per night
- Highlights: A cozy retreat known for its tranquility and beautiful location.
4. Nam Ly Retreat
- Price: From €35 per night
- Highlights: Features traditional designs and a serene ambiance.
Eating, drinking & restaurants
Hoang Su Phi offers a unique culinary experience rooted in the traditions of its ethnic communities. While options are limited compared to larger towns, the flavors are authentic and reflective of the region’s cultural heritage.
Local dishes
1. Sticky Rice (Xoi La Chi):
Prepared by the La Chi ethnic group, this dish uses locally grown rice, creating a sticky and flavorful staple. Often served with savory accompaniments, it’s a must-try.
2. Nang Don Rice Wine:
Crafted by the Nung people in Nang Don commune, this traditional rice wine is aromatic and strong, often enjoyed during celebrations or family meals.
3. Thang Co:
A unique dish made from the organs of cows or horses, it is a traditional specialty among ethnic groups. While it may not suit everyone’s palate, it’s an adventurous choice for those wanting a truly local experience.
4. Fin Ho Tea:
Sourced from the Shan Tuyet tea trees, which grow at high altitudes, this tea is a refreshing and aromatic drink.
5. Red Plum:
A seasonal delicacy, these juicy plums are available in June and July, offering a sweet snack for travelers during this time.
Restaurants
Restaurants in Hoang Su Phi are basic and focus on local cuisine, with little to no Western options. Dining here offers an authentic glimpse into local food culture.
- Homestay Meals: Most homestays provide family-style meals, which are a great way to try traditional dishes in a cozy setting.
- Market Food: Visit the Sunday market in Vinh Quang town for fresh, seasonal produce and snacks.
Tips for Dining
- Stick to Homestays or Lodges: These often provide the most reliable and hygienic meals.
- Embrace Local Cuisine: Be open to trying new flavors and dishes that reflect the region’s unique culture.
- Plan Ahead: If you have specific dietary requirements, inform your accommodation in advance to ensure your needs are met.
Tips for visiting Hoang Su Phi
Hoang Su Phi is a remote and unspoiled destination, offering breathtaking landscapes and a glimpse into traditional Vietnamese culture. Here are some tips to make your trip more enjoyable and memorable.
1. Respect the Local Culture
- Dress Modestly: When visiting villages, wear respectful clothing that aligns with the local customs.
- Photography: Always ask for permission before taking photos of local people or their homes.
- Rice Fields: Avoid walking into the rice fields, as they are essential to the livelihood of the ethnic communities.
2. Hire a Local Guide
A guide can help you navigate the area’s remote trails, communicate with locals, and share insights about the history and culture of the region. This is particularly useful if you plan to trek or explore off-the-beaten-path locations.
3. Plan for the Right Season
- Best Time: Visit during the harvest season (September–October) for golden terraces or the water season (March–May) for reflective fields.
- Rainy Season: Be prepared for potential rain and landslides, especially if traveling during the summer months.
4. Book Accommodations in Advance
Hoang Su Phi sees an influx of visitors during the harvest season, and accommodations can fill up quickly. Plan ahead to secure your preferred lodging, especially if you wish to stay in a homestay or eco-lodge.
5. Prepare for Remote Conditions
- Limited Facilities: Be ready for basic accommodations, especially in homestays, where amenities may be minimal.
- Cash Only: Bring sufficient cash, as ATMs and card payments are rare in this area.
- Connectivity: Internet and mobile coverage may be limited, offering a chance to disconnect and immerse yourself in nature.
6. Pack the Essentials
- Weather Gear: A lightweight rain jacket or poncho is essential, especially during the rainy season.
- Walking Shoes: Bring sturdy shoes for trekking on uneven and potentially muddy trails.
- Other Items: Sunscreen, insect repellent, and a refillable water bottle are also recommended.
7. Embrace the Local Experience
Be open to staying in homestays and participating in local traditions, such as cooking or sharing meals with your hosts. These experiences provide invaluable cultural insights and leave lasting memories.
