Nestled deep within the jungles of Vietnam, My Son emerges as a testament to the grandeur and spiritual devotion of the ancient Champa civilization. This temple complex, situated near Hoi An, is an intriguing blend of history, culture, and architectural prowess that beckons travelers from all corners of the world.
What is My Son Sanctuary?
My Son Sanctuary is a sprawling archaeological site boasting a series of impressive tower-temples surrounded by thick jungle. Declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999, this ancient Hindu temple complex is a representation of the rich cultural and religious heritage of the Champa Kingdom that once thrived in Central Vietnam.
The History of My Son
The origins of My Son date back to the 4th century, flourishing between the 4th and 14th centuries as a place of religious ceremony for kings of the ruling dynasties of Champa, as well as a burial place for Cham royalty and national heroes. Over time, successive dynasties have added to the original complex, resulting in an intricate collection of temples and towers.
The Champa Empire
Having reigned over Central Vietnam from 200 to 1700 AD, the Cham people laid the foundation of numerous temples, heavily influenced by Hindu architecture and iconography. The Po Nagar Cham tower in Nha Trang stands as the best-preserved temple, continuing to serve Buddhist devotees. My Son, in its prime, was the most significant temple complex of the Champa Kingdom.
The unique construction technique is a highlight of these temples. Crafted using red bricks and soft stones without any cement, these structures showcase intricate sculptures of animals, deities, and priests. Upon completion, the temples were set ablaze, solidifying the bricks and stones in place. The absence of cement and holes is a remarkable feat of ancient engineering. More than just a religious center, My Son also played pivotal roles as a political hub and royal cemetery, with over 70 edifices dedicated to various Hindu deities.
Vietnam War
Following the decline of the Champa Kingdom, the relentless grip of nature began enveloping My Son, with the dense jungle eventually concealing its existence. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that French explorers rediscovered the temple complex, equating its significance to renowned sites like Angkor in Cambodia and Borobudur in Indonesia.
However, the shadows of modern warfare reached My Son during the 1960s. While it served as a base and refuge for the Viet Cong, its historical value was acknowledged with the US Congress prohibiting any bombings here. Tragically, a few bombings did occur, leaving scars on the temple structures. Despite this dark phase, the central complex stands resilient, with portions restored, silently narrating tales of its past glory and the tumultuous history it endured during the Vietnam War.
Visiting My Son
Derived from the meaning „beautiful mountain,“ My Son stands true to its nomenclature, seated majestically amidst a vibrant jungle and overshadowed by soaring peaks. The persistent embrace of nature is evident as green tendrils wind through cracks, consuming ancient edifices, infusing the ruins with an enchanting aura that’s hard to resist for any visitor.
The Most Important Temples
The array of temples at My Son display varying levels of deterioration and restoration. Segregated into nine distinct groups, labelled A through G, the key clusters are A, B-C-D, and E-F, with G, H, and L being more isolated and significantly smaller. A network of well-maintained trails facilitates easy navigation between these clusters.
Group B enshrines the core essence of the My Son Sanctuary. Here, you’ll find a temple commemorating both King Bhadravarman and the Hindu deity, Shiva. The vivid remnants of Cham artistry are particularly discernible here. Additionally, an unearthed linga, symbolic of Shiva in Hinduism, asserts the site’s spiritual significance.
Parts of the complex exhibit the scars of bombings, now blanketed by grass, obscuring the erstwhile grandeur of centuries-past structures. Amid these relics of warfare, signs of restoration are evident, alongside lingering marks of bullets and transformed bomb craters, now serving as tranquil ponds.
Museums
Close to the entrance stands a museum dedicated to the Champa culture. Rich with artifacts and statues, it offers visitors a glimpse into the sanctuary’s past grandeur. While many of the well-preserved sculptures have found their homes within these museum walls, others have been relocated to a secondary exhibit located within Group A. For a holistic understanding of the site’s history and significance, it’s recommended to delve into these museums before exploring the ruins.
Cultural dance show
For those seeking a dose of local culture, traditional dance performances are staged daily at 9:30 am and 10:30 am. Primarily aimed at morning tour groups, the stage is conveniently located en route to the initial ruins, juxtaposed against a souvenir store.
My Son Lake
An often overlooked gem, streams within the My Son complex eventually meander into a serene, secluded lake. This untouched haven remains off the typical tourist radar, offering a tranquil kayaking experience. Spanning three kilometers, the expansive waters invite visitors to leisurely paddle amidst nature’s embrace. Numerous rental options for canoes and kayaks can be spotted during the drive to My Son and near its entrance, making it a delightful addition to the temple exploration itinerary.
Ticket price and opening hours
- Entrance Fee: 150,000 VND (includes My Son Sanctuary and the Champa Museum)
- Parking for Scooters: 5,000 VND
- Opening Hours:
- Daily from 6:30 am – 5:30 pm
Note: The above fees apply when visiting My Son independently. These costs are usually included in most tour packages.
Tips:
- Dress Respectfully: Given My Son’s spiritual significance, visitors should ensure their attire covers the shoulders, abdomen, and knees.
- Plan Your Visit: Mornings often see a flurry of group tours, while afternoons can be intensely hot. Choose your visit time based on your preference and preparedness for the weather.
How to get to My Son independitly
Taxi or Private Car
- Cost: Expect to pay between 30 to 50 euros if opting for a taxi.
- Better Alternative: Consider hiring a car with a driver and negotiate a fixed price upfront. This provides flexibility with your schedule, allowing for an early visit before crowds converge.
- Comparing with Tours: While you get more freedom with a private car, the price may not be more cost-effective than tours, especially if you’re only a party of two. Tours frequently offer additional activities and stops which make them valuable.
By Motorbike
- Rental: Scooters can be rented in Da Nang or Hoi An for approximately $5 (100,000 VND).
- Gasoline: The round trip fuel cost from Hoi An is around $3-4.
- Safety Concerns: Riding in Vietnam comes with its risks. If you aren’t experienced or lack a valid motorbike license, consider other travel options.
- Route Recommendations: Although the main highway is the quickest route to My Son, opting for the countryside or beach roads provides a safer and more picturesque journey, avoiding larger vehicles.
My Son tours from Hoi An
There are quite a few tours being offered to Hoi An. it is important that you look carefully in advance to see what kind of tour it is. There are already very cheap tours starting at 5 dollar, but this often means that you are traveling in a large group, entrance fees are not included and you don’t have much time to see all the temples.
Local Vietnam My Son tour by small group from Hoi An
- Hotel pick-up and drop-off.
- Small group travel in a comfortable van.
- Ample time to explore My Son.
- Additional attractions like a traditional rice paper workshop.
- Lunch at a local residence.
- A scenic boat ride on the Thu Bon River, offering a glimpse into the picturesque countryside and river life, before returning to Hoi An.
